Geoff Hargrave, a Texas-raised chef, knows there’s beer for every occasion. “When it’s hot outside, I love a Kolsh,” says Hargrave, chef and co-owner at West End Tap. “When it’s cold outside, I prefer a porter.”
The eight-month-old restaurant in the Swift Street courtyard sits in the former site of Le Cigare Volant, and will open up a patio this spring. Hargrave and I chatted on Thursday afternoon as Eric Clapton’s “Layla” played over the speakers.
SCW: Good song. Do you pick the music?
GEOFF HARGRAVE: We have a commercial Pandora account, so it’s whatever we’re feeling. Black Keys is very fitting for here. Eric Clapton radio works. Eddie Vedder radio works, a little more folksy. It all depends. Friday night’s a different mood than Thursday afternoon.
You worked under French and Japanese chefs. Have those flavors influenced you?
The French have helped me adjust with bringing the comfort food side to West End—heavier sauces, bigger flavors that match better with beer. The Japanese have taught me when to stop adding heavy flavors, when to pull back. That’s a good balance for any cook. Anyone can keep adding flavors, but when you pull back, that’s when you get something great.
How’s the community on Swift Street? Any kickball games with Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing?
I would love to. I’ve been so busy. I haven’t had a chance to venture out on those things yet—softball, whatever it may be. I just haven’t had time to come up for air yet.
Did you learn anything from Le Cigare Volant?
We’re a very inclusive restaurant, not exclusive. We want people to be able to come here a few times a month. That’s why it’s priced the way it is. That’s why the food’s approachable the way it is. We’re not pushing any boundaries here. That’s for a different venue that I hope to get to at a different time. Le Cigare Volant was a little avant-garde, which I think is cool and great and I respect very much. It just might not have been for this neighborhood at this time.
