Ocean-fresh seafood, an emphasis on natural ingredients, casual atmosphere and an eclectic mix of exotic cuisines characterize Santa Cruz's culinary culture. Vegetarian-friendly and vegetarian restaurants are well represented, but there are enough steak houses to toss a little red meat into the mix. SantaCruz.com's Santa Cruz area dining guide is anchored by dining reviews from the Santa Cruz Weekly newspaper.
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Silver Lining for Clouds Downtown
Jan 29, 2010, by Christina Waters
Lou Caviglia has done a great job over the years of knowing exactly who his clientele is, what his patrons want and how to sail safely through fashion trends and economic turbulence. Clouds does a fine job making the cocktail set feel right at home, and it has devised a surefire menu of crowd-pleasers loaded with seafoods, steaks and high-flavor small plates. Our dining quartet met at the bar last week and, with one eye on the NFL game above the bar, we started with glasses of Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Petite Syrah ($10) and some wicked caramel appletinis ($8). Read more » -
Most vegetables, left to their own devices, won’t slide easily into a flavor partnership with wine. That’s because flora in general, and green veggies in particular, bring their own herbal, grassy, sometimes even metallic bitter tones to the table. Wines, on the other hand, love to partner with flavors that offer fruit, meatiness, butter, olive oil—in other words, rich, strong, earthy attitudes. Vegetables are known for other, well, virtues. And that means, as many chefs know all too well, that it can be challenging to make a wine-friendly dish of brussels sprouts or asparagus. Read more » -
Even though its original founders are gone, Real Thai Kitchen is still capable of creating authentic dishes laced with the enduring flavors of chili, basil, ginger and garlic. On a recent excursion to the Midtown eatery, the three of us had our mouths set for spice. And spice is what we got, punctuated by some unremarkable standards. Oddly enough, our dinner at Real Thai went against the general rule that appetizers are always more interesting than entrees. Read more » -
Mornings at Black China Bakery are filled with the insistent hissing of the espresso machine and perfumed by the aromas of fresh pastry. Fabled for its incomparable dark chocolate cake and addictive cranberry scones, Black China morphed into a café a while back and began serving lunches that were pretty, organic and, yes, vegetarian. Now the boho space on Soquel Drive has taken another plunge. Hoping to appeal to sophisticated vegans and vegetarians, the Café is now open for dining until 9pm Thursday through Saturday. Read more » -
For the finicky gastronome on your list, nothing will do but the best. In a word—wine! That’s right, vino, especially something with a concept behind it. Here’s an example. You’re going to a holiday party at your friend’s house. That friend is watching her budget these days and has been languishing on a steady diet of cheapo Argentine wines from Trader Joe’s. Brighten her day with a very nicely made bottle of pinot noir from the Santa Cruz Mountains—say, something in the key of licorice and plums from Windy Oaks, Vine Hill, Alfaro and/or Storrs. These will run you anywhere from $30 to $45, but Christmas comes but once a year, no? Read more » -
The season’s ritual dinners cry out for just the right wine to match the entrée. Let me start out with a sure-fire concept—champagne. If all else fails, never forget that a crisp, dry bubbly goes with any and every food. So if you’re feeling gastronomically lazy or just can’t decide what to serve, either a decent French champagne (Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot, Roederer—all will do nicely), or a well-made California sparkler such as Gloria Ferrer, Schramsberg or our own local Equinox, will carry the entire meal from smoked almonds to pumpkin pie. But for those who enjoy the hunt for a wine to go with appetizers, another to go with the turkey, or lamb, or roast beef, and yet another for the cheese course—here are some solid ideas to get you started. Read more » -
Various chefs have paved the way for Avanti’s current helmsman Benjamin Sims, who continues the high standards that, once set, have never faltered. At the top of every Westsider’s go-to list for reliable luxury at moderate prices, Avanti , with its fetching wine list and warm ambience, delivers again. And again. Read more » -
Most people go for the plush velour couches, the sparkling firelight and the romantic deck. Oh, and let’s not forget the sophisticated lineup of cocktails. But we went to dine, and we were happy with the overall results. Read more » -
By now, we all know that the Santa Cruz Mountains are home to dozens of small artisanal wineries. And many have heard that on certain weekends the wineries host big events called Passport days. But some folks still aren’t quite sure what this Passport program is all about. So let’s get started.
Four times a year (the third Saturdays of January, April, July and November), members of the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association open their tasting rooms and wineries to the public. Here’s why that matters: Many of these wineries aren’t open to the public most of the year, and these open house days allow wine lovers to visit the wineries, meet eccentric winemakers, tour the cellars and sample and purchase rare, limited and new varietals created by our local vintners. Read more » -
I’m no stranger to pumpkin pie. When I owned and operated a small pumpkin pie business after college, I experimented widely, trying countless permutations on the basic theme. I thought I knew most everything there is to know about pumpkin pie. But walking around a night market in Bangkok, Thailand recently, I had an experience that turned my concept of pumpkin pie inside-out. Read more » -
This year's San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition gave gold medals to the Storrs 2007 Santa Cruz Mountain and the 2007 Stu Miller Vineyard chardonnays. It was an exciting honor for local winemakers Steve and Pamela Storrs, but it was hardly an unprecedented one. Peer awards are typical for this poised winery started up on a proverbial shoestring 20 years ago by the husband-and-wife team of UC Davis-trained oenologists. Read more » -
Small and intimate, an attractive assortment of artwork adorning the coral-hued walls, this little Sri Lankan dining room makes a special invitation to those who like vegetarian dining. But there is plenty of lamb and chicken on offer as well.
Service is warm and sporadic, almost as if patrons had dropped into a private home where not every aspect of dinner is ready at the same time. Still, timing is important in the culinary world, as in other domains of life, and it’s difficult to feel that the management is entirely in control of its operation when entrees arrive before appetizers and food arrives before drinks. Read more » -
The seasons each take turns showing up on the earthenware plates of Avanti. Beet raviolis in winter and fava beans and lamb in the spring. An astonishing creation of lentils, pancetta and roast brussel sprouts has winter patrons coming back for more. And heirloom tomatoes, shell beans and padron peppers splash gorgeous colors throughout Ben Sims’ late harvest menu. A fixture at several of the local farmers markets, Avanti’s chef fills his creation with the freshest items from local fields and orchards. “And at least one day a week I try to go to the City, or to the East Bay,” he says. While there, Sims goes to eat, hooking up with former colleagues from Pizzaiolo and Chez Panisse and sampling new ideas from the kitchens he most respects. Read more » -
Seated across the street from where my grandfather’s house once stood, I soaked up the view of redwood slopes sunning in the late summer afternoon. I was, of course, at Scopazzi’s, a roadhouse legend at the bend of Big Basin Way. And it was gratifying, in a world that changes by the minute, to find that this durable landmark still does things in a gracious way. Mountain hospitality is always the special of the house, and I’ll swear the ghost of my uncle Bud, a Scopazzi’s regular for decades, was seated down at the end of the bar, sipping a Scotch while his steak cooked on the grill. Read more » -
On the Menu: Calamari with squid ink risotto, savory bread pudding with kale and lemon relish, braised beef short ribs with creamy polenta and gremolata.
It was his cooking partners from Oliveto in Oakland who made Damani Thomas an offer he couldn't refuse: come on down to cook for a year or so at our new place in Santa Cruz. The place was Oswald. Thomas agreed, fell in love with the town and thought, "Why not try it for a little while?" That was 15 years ago. Read more » -
On the Menu: House-made gnocchi with Point Reyes goat cheese ragout, raspberry vinaigrette ricotta salata.
Brad Briske's path to hand-butchered charcuterie began unexpectedly. "I would have kept snowboarding, but it didn't make any money," the chef of Gabriella Café confesses, recalling his youthful days on the slopes of his native Lake Tahoe and New Zealand. "My girlfriend suggested I go into cooking, but I was a vegan and didn't want to have to cut up meat," he says. Read more » -
On the Menu: Slow-roasted pork shoulder with pecorino polenta and braised greens, whole fried rock cod with sweet corn, roasted dry-farmed tomato soup with torn bread and crème fraîche.
During his three-month stint at Noma, a two-Michelin-star Danish restaurant regarded as one of the best in the world, Charlie Parker realized he'd had enough of fine dining restaurants. Eating in other star-bestowed restaurants around Europe added to the feeling Read more » -
Tom Vinolus always loved cooking, but he wanted to be a concert promoter—until he realized he wouldn’t be able to work for himself. Two and a half years at the Hilton in Irvine, a degree at the Culinary Institute of America and a coveted job at Charlie Palmer’s Aureole in New York set him up with the skills to match his imagination and ambition. He headed back to California, and after a stint as pastry chef at Casanova in Carmel, Vinolus bought Zanzibar, several doors down from O’Mei. The bistro concept carried over to Bittersweet, his popular Aptos restaurant, which has gained a loyal following for its consistent quality and spectacular desserts. Read more » -
Armed with a culinary degree from Philadelphia Restaurant School, experience cooking in major hotels on the East Coast, and a passion for golf, Michael Alonzo came to California five years ago, and has been Chef at Pasatiempo Golf Club’s Hollins House Restaurant ever since. Read more » -
It's possible that the road of temptation is paved with caprese salads. Come late summer, who can resist the allure of sliced heirloom tomatoes joined by creamy mozzarella, the licoracy perfume of fresh basil and a dressing of olive oil and balsamic? Not us. Read more » -
Potatoes at breakfast are usually gratuitous, a starchy way of filling up the plate, a carbo-charged afterthought. The potatoes at Hoffman’s are worth eating right down to the last bite. We discovered this happy fact, and more, last week at a post-workout breakfast that left us full and satisfied. Read more » -
Oil paintings line the graceful rooms, white cloths and fresh flowers top the tables. Owner Paul Cocking greets guests, pours wine. Brad Briske's team rocks the kitchen. And between a fine lineup of California wines and a nightly menu showcasing local specialty items, this is arguably the best dining in town. Read more » -
The Sunny Resort that is the Dream Inn still perches like a golden sandcastle along West Cliff Drive. Only now, the spectacular view of wharf and waves is available through the picture windows of Aquarius. Chef Philippe Breneman, formerly of Ventana Inn and most recently of Paragon in San Jose, is at the helm of the playfully modernist dining room, creating dishes as lovely as the sleek orange and sand-toned interior. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner--and for stylish cocktails just about any time you want them--the hotel's revamped dining room offers casually elegant (think San Francisco) fare designed to tempt locals and satiate visitors. Read more » -
After many terrific meals at La Mission over the years, a recent breakfast and lunch left us with mixed feelings. We enjoyed our classic huevos rancheros ($7.95), topped with a very tangy chile sauce and accompanied by oceans of voluptuous refried beans. The eggs in my order were perfectly cooked over medium, allowing all that rich, yellow yolk to run into the beans and salsa. Read more » -
We've come a long way since those youthful picnics with a trusty bottle of introductory wine in the form of Mateus or Lancers Rosé. Nonetheless, when the weather gets warm there's no denying the appeal of pink wine. Rosés have been with us since the post-war era of easy-sippin' outdoor dining. The theory was that if some like red wine and others like white wine, hopefully everybody would enjoy a wine that appeared to be somewhere in between. And today's blush wines--rosés--actually are able to hold their own equally well with seafoods, ripe cheeses and barbecued pork. Read more » -
A few nights ago my three cronies and I got serious about seafood--at Hawgs. First off, we attacked a platter of crab and shrimp quesadilla ($12), which came sliced into in easy-access wedges, along with three dipping sauces of tomatillo salsa, tomato salsa and sour cream. Ripe avocado topped each triangle of toasted flour tortilla. The quesadilla served as a warm-up, along with a glass of Ridge Three Valleys zin blend ($9), a frosty Peroni beer ($5) and a Hibiscus (involving plenty of tequila, $8). Our conversation gained traction just as more food arrived. Great staff at Hawgs, let it be noted. Read more » -
The Sepia label is framed by a creamy border. Against the dark brown field, embossed with a watermark of grape clusters, floats an atmospheric view of Vine Hill, the vineyards in the foreground overlooking a procession of mountain ridges. Fog settles in the valleys below, watched over by a few iconic oaks. The words "Vine Hill" at the top, and "Santa Cruz Mountains" along the bottom, are embossed in gold. It is an elegant, appealing and site-specific wine label. Read more » -
After three meals at the very new, very smart Cellar Door Café in the Bonny Doon Vineyard tasting room, I only wish I could dine there every Friday. On one occasion, I sampled a range of what chef Charlie Parker has up his wunderkind sleeve--from pork belly topped with house-smoked salmon roe to a salad of local greens, multicolored beets, fennel, hazelnuts and pecorino. Desserts included warm olive oil cake and stewed apricots and lemon poundcakes layered with organic strawberries and rose-scented cream. The flavor-driven list of small plates--applewood-smoked fingerling potatoes with aioli, pizzas du jour, cheese plates, cured seafoods--is available daily from noon on. But it's the three-course, prix fixe cafe menu that captures my attention. Read more » -
Imagine it's the late '60s. You're in a pizza parlor. The pizza parlor is in Felton. OK? Well, Redwood Pizzeria is exactly like the picture you now have in your mind. Read more » -
Without a doubt Linwood's supplies one of the dreamiest, most soothing, positively Ligurian views available in Santa Cruz. The sapphire bay, dotted with white sails, all unfolds beyond the rolling green lawn and stands of eucalyptus adorning Chaminade. Read more » -
Somehow you know you've been here before. Metaphorically, at least. The Greek offers a melodious echo of its progenitor, Vasili's--the restaurant that launched a thousand spontaneous dancing parties and retsina afterglows. Well, the Greek is the new Mediterranean kid in downtown Santa Cruz, and it's deliciously armed with the irrepressible menu that made Vasili's a local legend. Read more » -
Café Mare's spacious dining room always has a soothing effect. The staff provides plenty of space for in-depth conversation without ignoring patrons' needs. And the location is perfect for Pacific Avenue sightseeing. Read more » -
The Santa Cruz Mountains wine appellation is as huge as it is diverse. It stretches from Woodside to Watsonville and encompasses three counties. Elevation ranges from 400 to 2,600 feet. While the coastal range and cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay broadly define the region, the geographic, climatic and geologic differences within this 480,000-acre area create innumerable vineyard microclimates that translate into a wide variety of flavors in the bottle. Read more » -
If there’s a more inventive way to get omega oils and lean protein into the human body, I haven’t yet found it. I refer to one of Japan’s greatest creations: sushi. In a perfect world there would be a sushi bar located every 100 feet, and in Santa Cruz that wish is almost a reality. Happy it is that Kawa Sushi & Roll is up and running and making local sushiholics happy as a hamaguri, especially since the prices here are realistic enough to appeal to the resident student population. Read more » -
The parking lot was full in mid-week. Hmm, obviously Bittersweet Bistro is doing something right. Not that it ever wasn’t. Once through the front doors, we were greeted by the happy sounds of a lounge packed with patrons. The rotating nightly “Recession Buster” specials are a big hit here, but Maureen and I were at Bittersweet for a full-on dinner experience. Seated near the cozy fireplace—somehow owners Tom and Elizabeth Vinolus have managed to carve up the huge footprint of the former Deer Park Tavern into intimate alcoves—we ordered a Manhattan, $8 (her), and a glass of Conn Creek cabernet sauvignon, $12 (me), and checked out the lengthy menu. Read more » -
When my mom was a kid, she used to come “downtown” from Boulder Creek to see movies at the corner of Walnut and Pacific Avenue. I imagine the fun of those movie palace days every time I have breakfast in the café now housed in the old theater. Somehow the footprint of the turn of the century still haunts this low-key, completely welcoming breakfast spot. The beamed ceiling, small cozy booths and diner-style counter seating, even the polished wood floors and suspended chandeliers, retain the feel of a kinder, gentler era. And that oasis of old-fashioned comfort definitely attracts an energetic clientele of downtown workers and professionals on weekday mornings. Read more » -
Gone are the high brick walls, the mini-bistro intimacy and those wild scarlet paintings. But after a long hiatus, Oswald is back, along with chef Damani Thomas, manager Keet Beck, and a short, sweet menu of brasserie satisfaction. Joining the list of appetizers, entrees and desserts (half dozen of each of each), is an eclectic selection of wines, short on California but long on France, Italy and German Rieslings. We spent but a moment wishing for more than five wines by the glass, because the A-Z Pinot Noir 2006 from Oregon ($12), a friendly Falanghina Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 ($8) and a bottle of the Cannonau Di Sardegna Riserva 2005 ($29) made our two recent visits sparkle. Read more » -
Yoji Ogawa leans over a large, cloth-lined tub and thrusts his hand into the snowy white mass filling it. Bits of white dust stick to his cuticles as he draws his hand up and opens his palm, revealing a handful of what looks like powdered, bloated bits of Styrofoam.
“Try it,” he says. The granules taste starchy, but distinctively sweet. This, he says, is koji, rice that has been polished, steamed and left to sit to get a frosting of mold. Good koji is at the very heart of the sake-making process. Read more »
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I don’t diet. I moved recently from New York, a place that glorifies haute couture cupcakes and alcoholism, so in the food pyramid of my life, pizza and beer each enjoy their own trapezoid. Suffice to say, the move to health-conscious Santa Cruz has been a bit of a shock.
Then, three weeks ago, it got a whole lot worse. My editor enlisted the office’s self-titled “glutards,” Molly and Maree, to talk me into giving up gluten, a supposedly evil protein found in wheat, rye and barley, and abundant in foods like bread, pasta, most desserts and—whimper —beer. Read more »
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Not as world-shaking as changes in the White House, perhaps, but nonetheless changes are happening at Capitola Book Cafe. Don’t worry—the coziness and the intimate scale of literary ambience haven’t changed. I’m talking about the café’s culinary expansion. Managed by Phil Nasr, who brings over 16 years with Palo Alto’s Harmony Bakery to the job, the new café menu is vibrant with fresh flavors, wines by the glass and full-bodied panini to add to its all-star roster of sensuous espresso drinks and pastries. Read more » -
The outlook for Calera Wine Company never looked better than it did in the boom of the late 1990s. Vineyards were in vogue. Josh Jensen, who had been producing internationally recognized pinot noir in the Gavilan Mountains outside Hollister since the 1970s, had finally gained a reputation as one of the premier winemakers in Northern California. Thousands of new customers were flooding in, spending tons of tech money on the high-quality varietals Calera was producing. But when the dotcom bubble burst in 2001, Calera, along with the rest of the California wine industry,
hit a brick wall. Read more » -
Last fall, Vancouver environmentalist Emily Jubenvill decided it was time to get her local sushi restaurants on the sustainability train. Following the Carrotmob model of consumer demonstration, she organized a crowd of people to visit sushi restaurants around town and descend en masse upon the most sustainable one on a predetermined day. On Nov. 20, some 100 people crowded into Sushi Bento Express, which had agreed to pursue a sustainability rating system on its menu. Read more » -
The word "wow" acquires new spin with the very first glimpse of Bonny Doon Vineyard's new tasting showcase. Sleek yet loaded with eclectic energy, the spacious tasting room offers daily opportunities to sip, swirl and learn. But even better, thanks to its Le Cigare Volant Cafe, connoisseurs can now enjoy small plates that are every inch the match for Randall Grahm's oenological poetry. Read more » -
One of the great cuisines of the world, Indian cooking in all its glory is once again available without driving over the hill. The entrepreneurs at Ambrosia India Bistro (sister to the popular Monterey restaurant) have given us all an early Christmas gift (just to mix my multicultural metaphors). Read more » -
Yes, we did order way too much food. But who could blame us? Lively, fresh and loaded with flavor contrasts, Jia Tella's vibrant Cambodian cuisine provides one-stop sensory bombardment. We joined Mario and Francesca last week for a dive into the center of this popular new Scotts Valley restaurant, where the casual format doesn't detract one bit from lingering long over spice-laden dishes. Read more » -
La Bruschetta has always been a terrific place to gather in groups for al fresco lunches and vivacious dinners. Even when it changed hands last year--the original chef/owner went on to launch In Vino Veritas in Scotts Valley--the setting has proven almost irresistible to locals. Two recent meals at the lovely Felton restaurant provided a puzzling mixed culinary metaphor. The outdoor lunch under the sprawling old oak was packed on a luxurious warm day, yet both service and menu proved limited and inconsistent. Dinner last week, however, brought forth the very best from this exhibition kitchen, even though the dining room itself was mysteriously underpopulated. Read more » -
We can all remember them, the dishes that instantly get our attention. These indelible winners walk straight into our lives, throw their arms around us and make themselves at home. The incomparable Chili & Eggs at Zachary's is such a defining dish. So resounding are its flavors, so plush its texture and so persistent its feisty finish that it provided a clear case of love at first bite. Even if we don't get down to Zachary's every weekend, just knowing that the chili specialty is there, waiting to bring unexpected bliss, puts everything in its place. Like watching the sun slide into the horizon at sunset. Zing! Ah! Yes! Read more » -
Still funky after all these years, Phil's Fish Market stands at the center of Monterey Bay scenic attractions. From all over they come to ogle the huge cods, snappers, salmons and sand dabs, laid out like marine royalty on their icy thrones. Fresh oysters of every description, poised in ice caves, await half-shell consumption. Visitors come to swill incomparable cioppino, crispy calamari and plump house-smoked sardines. Locals load up on frozen chowders and sauces, all created from recipes originating in the Sicilian kitchen of Phil's grandmother. Read more » -
Several friends had urged me to get on over to the new Afghan/Pakistani restaurant at the western end of Pacific Avenue, and so I finally did. After two months in business, Khyber Pass is still gauging the tempo of its dining clientele. This is no easy feat given the fickleness of summer grazing patterns and the fact that this friendly restaurant stays open continuously from lunch through dinner. Spacious and clean, the new home of northern Indian cuisine is punctuated with some Afghan recipes as well--and this is great news for fans of the curry-scented dishes of mountainous South Asia. Read more » -
Breakfast just may be the last bargain on the planet--and done American-style, it's pretty much guaranteed to fill you full of protein, carbohydrates, fat, sugar and fresh fruit juice. Oh--and plenty of caffeine too, arguably the most important food group known to woman. In a world of poses, attitudes and designer statements, Silver Spur is downright refreshing. Unlike some of the voguing scenes in beach neighborhoods, this breakfast venue caters to folks who work in the area--Silver Spur is actually closed on Sunday. Here the menu glides easily from breakfast into lunch and serves up big, friendly plates from 6am right through to 3pm, Monday through Saturday. Read more » -
Old venue, new menu--in the case of Fusion at Pearl Alley, this turns out to be a very appealing combo. The upstairs lounge/restaurant that for many years was known as Pearl Alley Bistro is one of the sweetest locations in Santa Cruz. If you've been around for a while, you've known this spot as a French bistro, as the area's first wine bar, and more recently as the showcase for the restless cuisine of chef-entrepreneur Marc Westburg. Recently, the vintage dining room was given some fresh attitude and a menu devoted to seasonal and organic ingredients defined by longtime area chef Robert Morris (formerly of Blacks Beach Cafe). Read more » -
Not since Luxor have I consumed this much hummus, I told Jack (with my mouth full) last Saturday night. We were sampling the food and lively vibes of Zameen, a mecca of Middle Eastern cuisine in Aptos. Huge tiles criss-cross the floor of this aromatic cafe counterpointed by tile mosaics, swirling Greco-Persian pop music and the flare of flames grilling skewers of lamb and chicken. Read more » -
Mousse, paté, French onion soup--Ma Maison's dinner menu brings on the Gallic temptation and then proceeds to deliver the goods. The pairing of chef Lionel Le Morvan's authentic continental cuisine and one of the prettiest restaurants in the county tends to place Ma Maison on most diners' short list of favorites. Before I revisit our meal at Ma Maison, I need to pause and emphasize one very important tasting point: this is not the place to neglect dessert. Au contraire! At the end of our meal, we shared a pastry creation so utterly accomplished, elegant and decadently comforting, that I only regretted not ordering two of them. But I digress. Read more » -
Lyle and I traded our big appetites and a serious need to get out of the office for lunch at Riva last week. A time-honored favorite with locals as well as summer visitors, Riva found its successful culinary formula a long time ago. That means sensible prices, a wide range of menu possibilities, a great view and a full bar to boot. Read more » -
Only a visitor from Mars--or an American under the age of 30--would have been surprised to see three grown women laughing and crying over the phrase, "The plane, boss, the plane!" The other diners last week at Johnny's Harborside probably figured that we'd simply been overserved. Read more » -
J-P Correa's impish grin widens. "Ninety-nine percent of the time I make the right match between customer and wine." Read more » -
Finding an exact fit is never easy, in appetite as in life. You know how it goes. You're in the mood for a great film, and all there is on the big screen is summer schlock. Or you find Mr. Right, only to discover that he comes with his very own parole officer. So when your needs and their satisfaction actually do mesh, it's, frankly, a big deal. It was a treat last week to enjoy a freshly prepared, generous lunch at the Roadhouse in Davenport--and then discover that it was a bargain to boot. Read more » -
Four women. Four hungry women. Four hungry women with two bottles of red wine and wildly divergent tastes in food. You can already see where this is going: directly to a memorable dinner at Sestri. Read more » -
In the centuries-old feng shui of coffeehouses there have always been distinct attitudes. At the far edge of coastal paradise those attitudes have tended to shake down to funky-cozy and metro-sleek. Holding down the pulsating corner of 41st and Portola, in the never-never land that is Opal Cliffs, Verve has clearly grabbed onto sleek and is running with it. The effect is something like a cross between Milan and Berkeley, and yet it's 100 percent Pleasure Point. Read more » -
It was a line in a book that led me to lunch at Duarte's Tavern. In Katherine Hayle's marvelous How We Became Posthuman, I came across a reference to our old friend, the late cybernetician Heinz von Foerster. Heinz had lived in Pescadero the last 25 years of his life, and we used to lunch with him at Duarte's, a spot he adored. It was high time to revisit the place where we'd shared so many meals with the loquacious Austrian. Read more » -
Jack and Noah have been die-hard La Cabaña fans since the early days when this family-run taco palace held down the working end of Davenport. When the taqueria moved to Mission Street, so did Jack and Noah, along with every student, surfer and farmworker on the Westside. These days I join them on their weekly taco orgy, backlit by throbbing Mex pop and televised soccer games. The ambience is classic, and that means aqua walls lined with Diego Rivera prints and obligatory kitsch artwork featuring caballeros posing on horseback in front of a mission. Huge plaster Olmec masks overlook the gumball machines. Behind the TV that is often tuned to gory disaster newscasts too bloody for American cable, to the left of the Mexican flag, a handwritten "Welcome--Please Order Here" invites you to make your selection. Read more » -
Those vintage sepia-toned photos of the Bay of Naples have returned to the pale yellow walls. Returned to the kitchen is Italian maestro Giovanni Di Maio, a man who knows his way around fettucine pescatore and homemade tiramisu. Teamed up with a savvy staff and his co-owner and maitre d' Augusto Assis, Di Maio is knocking us out. From the opening bite of opulent, milky buffalo mozzarella to the final spoonful of limoncello cream parfait, we were in Neapolitan heaven. Like many of the chef's fans, Jack and I had mourned the closure of Caffe Bella Napoli three years ago. But sometimes lightning does strike twice, and three weeks ago Di Maio and Assis teamed up again and opened the doors of this intimate little dining room on Water Street. Read more » -
In Asian culture the art of placement is taken very seriously. In Hindi it's called vaastu and in Chinese we know it as feng shui, but the idea is the same—the harmonic placement of things in one's environment can impart health, happiness and prosperity. Recently I was taken by the focus on the energy of place at an eatery in our own back yard, Bangkok West in Aptos. Guests arrive through one of three entrances that open to a lush garden courtyard in front of the restaurant. The pathway meanders through the greenery in a shift away from the outside world to a more present state of mind. My friend Rebecca and I stopped to admire the spirit house, a shrine in the form of a mini temple, perched on a pedestal in the garden. On the shrine were offerings of fresh fruit, flowers, incense and drink to the guardian spirit. Read more » -
The sun did not shine. It was too wet to play. So we sat in the house all that cold, cold, wet day." Chaos, in the form of an uninvited cat, drops in on an unsupervised Sally and her brother one rainy day in Dr. Seuss' The Cat in the Hat. And while deep in their beautifully subversive little hearts the children are enraptured by the intoxicating romp, the fish tries his best to thwart this giddy adventure. If this had taken place on a recent blustery night in Santa Cruz you might have heard him say, "No! No! Make that cat go away! Tell that cat in the hat you'll have dinner away. Drive to Star Bene where the lights are still on. Drive to Star Bene and make that cat gone!" Read more » -
I tried to kill a man once. He lived to tell the tale and this is his allegation. The scene of the alleged crime: Charlie Hong Kong. He has since found it in his heart to forgive me, and although I appreciate the gravity of my act, I plead innocent. These days as I sit on the stool watching the world whiz by on Soquel Avenue, waiting for my order to come up, I sometimes muse about that time long ago. I'm drawn to this place, this vortex of energy and memory. With little effort you can imagine Charlie Hong Kong as a food stall on a street in Hong Kong or Chiang Mai. Never mind the Harley Davidson dealer across the street and the heat lamps hanging in the tented dining annex. For 12 hours every day you will usually find the place buzzing and alive with the constant flow of customers coming and going, order numbers being called out from the side window of the tiny kitchen and a frenzy of street traffic for background hum. Read more » -
For a time some years ago, when my cat was but a wee ball of fur, he could not bear to be on one side of a closed door. Any door-front door, bedroom door, closets, cupboards-he would wail and whine until I would give in and tear down the barrier between him and whatever he couldn't get to. Curiosity hasn't killed this cat but it certainly made him unpopular for a while. I reflected on this recently as I sat on one side of the curtained-off kitchen at the recently opened Au Midi in Aptos. The dining room is simple and sophisticated; a warm wash of yellow covers the walls and white linens dress the small tables. A collection of paintings portrays idyllic seaside spots and the mood is comfortable and inviting (except for the panels separating me from the kitchen scene). This instantly piqued my curiosity, and I was all the more intrigued. My friend Nabil did not share in my inquisitiveness and had no problem concentrating his attention on the menu. Read more » -
I'm what you might call a sockaholic. Not a shopaholic; it's just about the socks. I used to save the special ones—the cashmere, the hand knits, the newer pairs—for "special" days. I had a similar pattern with cooking ingredients. I used to buy two bottles of olive oil—one really good bottle for significant dishes and another less precious bottle for everyday use. But I found myself usually reaching for the better olive oil, and one day it hit me like a day-old loaf of bread: every day is the special day. Every meal deserves the best ingredients. Read more » -
It is said that beauty hurts and that no pain yields no gain, and there are a lot of pious folks who will tell you that happiness in the end is the big payoff for suffering now. I will admit to tolerating a pair of killer high heels for fashion's sake, but I'll pass on the hair shirt. Life shouldn't have to be a thing endured. I pondered this recently and will add that food shouldn't hurt either. Read more » -
The pox is back. At least that's what we call it in our office, and perhaps you too have waged a battle against the seasonal tide of respiratory ailments already cresting in our midst. While I declared my refusal to succumb to its greedy viral grip, I haven't exactly been proactive in my defense. My big gesture (aside from my official proclamation) was to set an herbal wellness remedy on my desk in the hope that it fortified my immune system by some osmotic force. I really hate those big pills.What I've wanted is a replacement for the remedy that for years was my talisman against every ailment coming around the bend—a wonton soup whose magic bullet was in the broth. It was at once soothing and powerful; the very heat of it seemed to sear anything in its path, and like magic, all trace of invasion often vanished within hours. The restaurant that provided my ammo is gone, and with it my best comrade in the fight. But no sooner had I bemoaned the loss to my assistant Craig than I discovered its possible reincarnation at Sabieng Thai restaurant. Read more » -
By day, the diminutive dining room buzzes in the manner of a luncheonette, and by night the candlelight on the tables mellows the scene to, well, a diner by candlelight. But don't get me wrong, the spirit here is exceptional. It is said, "You are who your friends are," and by the looks of the dedicated clientele, it indicates something is right at Lillian's. Read more » -
Minute by minute, day by day the earth shifts in its celestial orientation, and suddenly we're in a new season. The difference between the day before the equinox and the day after is imperceptible to us modern folk, but still we mark each juncture, and many welcome it as an opportunity for transmutation—fall cleaning, back to school, back to work. Just when that old pair of cheap rubber thongs is about to give out it's time to put on the work boots and move on. Read more » -
Imagine, if you will, the love child of Frida Kahlo and James Beard joining forces with the spawn of Martha Stewart and Jerry Seinfeld. Such a union might create an enterprise like the Farm—beautiful, iconic, simple, delicious, with an eye for ambience and a twist of humor to keep it all in perspective. The Farm is all this and home to a bakery, cafe and gift shop. Read more » -
I grew up in a large family, so I know firsthand the pluses of being part of a tribal unit, as well as the obvious drawbacks. For my part, I don't miss lying in bed with an upper bunk hovering over me, or the fight for time in the bathroom or on the telephone. I have, however, had some difficulty getting used to eating by myself, even after all these years. Read more » -
I imagine my life some time from now, when I have it all together, and I envision a woman fully actualized. I learn to play the cello, I write books with titles like My Year in Bhutan and I have distilled my wardrobe down to three fabulous pieces that are somehow always clean. And oh, my pantry is always stocked for the perfect pistou for a surprise guest. This last goes along with some fantasies about staying home, cooking all day and knocking my friends' socks off with my culinary prowess. Alas, this is all still evolving. Read more » -
One of these days I'm going to eat dessert first. I'll approach said menu fresh, with a hearty appetite and full of anticipation. With a clean palate I'll carefully tend to each bite with proper reverence and attention to the pastry chef's labors, taking in the dish at a leisurely pace over good conversation while considering the possibility that maybe I might just have room for a dip into a salad at the end. Read more » -
My friend Alicia dipped into the ceramic crock and pulled out a small note, written on what appeared to be a piece of a brown paper bag. I sat expectantly as she unfolded her dispatch to reveal its contents. It had never occurred to me to actually read the notes left by other diners in the scores of Italian crocks filling the sills at Ristorante Avanti. I myself have left many a supplication, confession or testimony in those vessels. Like a pilgrim at the wailing wall, I imagined they would not be read by human eyes but somehow absorbed by the universe. Read more »
